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The Runs of Walden’s Ridge Tennessee.

Notes by Mark D’Agostino author of www.Alabamawhitewater.com. 

 Mark Cumnock is one of the foremost exploratory paddlers in our area of the southeast, with numerous first descents and the videos “Falling off Walden’s Ridge” and Steep Creekin’” and  Mike ”Louie” Lewis’s “One Winter and a Few Falls” , and Milt Aikens "Paddlesnake’s" to his credit, he is a true authority on the creek runs of northern Alabama, eastern Tennessee, and northern Georgia. Here he offers a brief but comprehensive description of the run’s of Walden’s Ridge.

Walden’s Ridge is located just north of Chattanooga Tennessee, and is really the same chunk of plateau as Sand Mountain in northern Alabama. It slopes east to west rather than west, is not as wide, and has longer harder runs than most on southern Sand Mountain creeks. Readers should keep in mind that Mark is a highly skilled paddler and many of these runs are considered Class V.

Over the years I have been asked about the runs of Walden’s Ridge, I had the pleasure of growing up part of my life in Chattanooga Tennessee, and for a brief time even living on Walden’s Ridge right in the heart of  the Morgan, Roaring, Brush and McGill Creek put-in area. Also I haven’t included any directions; we now live in the day of Wal-Mart topo maps and turn by turn GPS directions. The nicest thing I think of the ridge runs is the easy shuttles. Hwy 27 is usually your take out, or gets you very close, and you have to go up to the mountain to make the run, so that makes it even easier. Hence, now know you how we came up with name "Falling Off Walden's Ridge" for our first video.

Here is brief description as you would drive north going up Hwy 27 leaving Chattanooga, Tennessee heading toward, Rockwood Tennessee. Also, here is a little campfire trivia for you. When traveling between Rockwood and Chattanooga which is approximately 70 miles. Walden’s Ridge averages a creek every 2.5 miles. It can make a Chattanooga boater somewhat lazy in not wanting to travel far from home. The Ridge has a way of doing that to a boater.

I have not rated the rapids, I’ve always had a hard time with that, as Bailey Johnson of Clinch River Paddle Company taught me “Run class V lines in class III and run class III lines in class V”. And it seems classifications are always up for debate, and what might be my fun run, might be your Waterloo or vice-versa.  I haven’t listed any gauges or water levels either it seems that they are always changing in some point, but they make a great reference. I just don’t want to be cussed out at the take out the next time I see you, or get flamed on Boatertalk.com, you telling me how you made a trip for nothing or something like that. Or how 1/10 of one inch is the norm for a hand painted gauge painted on the side of a tree out in the middle of nowhere. Usually ½” to 1”of consistent rain that falls into a weekly pattern is your best bet. But then again what watersheds aren’t like that. Pay camping can be had a Blue Water Campground (not up to par) in Dayton, Tennessee, where they have a telephone and hot showers, but I cannot recommend it but I felt like I had to mention it. You can camp free at a rustic campground at the headwater/put-in of Newby Branch, camp before June, and you will have it all to yourself. It is maintained (sort-of) by Bowater Paper Company. There is also more pay camping above Spring City, you can see the signs while driving North up Hwy 27, but I have never checked them out.

I hope you will enjoy the descriptions of the wonderful creeks The Ridge has to offer. Some of these need to be enjoyed now due to urban sprawl and clear cutting from the chip mills, that is creeping up on the headwaters of these fine runs. I must also note after having e-mail conversations with Ted Hayes, he has informed me that the creeks don’t run a much as they use to, due to clear cutting and other unknown factors. So get out there and enjoy them now before it is too late.

Hope you enjoy these...............

                                            deep creek photo by brian "cock-o" collins......first descent

 Falling Water

Falling Water, Tennessee

 By the way what a cool name for a town, imagine that on your mailing address.

 Falling Water is a big drop run, with three big notable rapids, the upper section was first run by Tim Williams and then it was first run all the way to the valley by Marc Lyle and his gang, but many just run the big three and then carry back up to the car, the put-in is really neat and it is in a land trust, very pretty area. Wayne Gentry’s video “Vertical Addiction” has great footage of this scenic run. This one runs a lot after summer down pours for some reason which is a nice break from the crowds on the Ocoee, but you need to be close. Wayne Gentry’s videos are out of print, and getting harder to find, but well worth the trouble.

 North Chickamauga Creek:

Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee

 The North Chickamauga internet gauge is hard for me to dial in for the tributaries of the North Chick. The gauge is downstream on the new Hwy 27 where the Corps of Engineers moved a lot of material for flood control ,and now the locals are removing rock for landscaping material, and to make matters worse there is an upside down car heading it’s way towards the gauge as you read this. But the gauge is very helpful and stops you from burning a lot of wasted fuel. The Chick needs to be on the high marginal side for Cooper and Cain creek. An old school way of knowing if Cooper or Cain were running was to look at the mountain, when driving over the Chick on old Hwy 27. When you look at the high voltage transmission power lines on the cliff at the top of the mountain, there is a seasonal waterfall running usually only running when Cain or Cooper are running. If don’t see the waterfall…..well you can do the math.

 To me the Chick is a cross between running the Chattooga five falls section on Section IV, and Jerod’s knee on the Tellico; but much, much longer, and more rapids to boot. I never bonded with the Chick, but I was always accused of running ditches. It is a very beautiful run, and it’s very hard to believe how close it is to Chattanooga and yet you still come away with a sense of a wilderness experience.

                        white-out rapid , jim little paddler, little possum creek, photo by Mike Clark

circa 1993

Cain Creek- North Chick Tributary

Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee

Cain Creek runs into the Chick upstream of Cooper Creek. It can be seen on Milt Atkins “Tales of the Paddlesnake” video series.  The biggest rapid here is named Vortex which to my knowledge was first explored by me and Jonathon “Lothar” Clarady at very low water during the summer of 1995. I was at the edge with Jonathon holding the end of my boat, while I looked wondering if it would go or not. I said “NO” he thought I said “GO” and let go. Before I knew it I had the look of shock on my face looking back at a drop I couldn’t believe I just ran, and wanted nothing to do with. Cain was first opened up by Andy Turner, Doug Wellman, Terry Smith, and local pioneer Ron Stewart. This is a neat run that helps get you to the Chick. The trick for me when it comes to running Vortex is to boof the dry rock in the middle, then slide right, right into the meat of the drop. The washout reminds me of Gorilla’s washout on the Narrows of the Green, in North Carolina, and this one will reward you for a good line unlike Gorilla, I think Gorilla should have been named “Random Number Generator”, yet I digress. The sweetest line I have ever seen run at Vortex, was the late Jon Lord , he nailed that line, and made me feel old in an instant. Jon will be missed; he was a good boater, good man.

                                                    vortex rapid   cain creek    ......first descent

Cooper Creek- North Chick Tributary

Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee

Cooper is a one of a kind run that is in Jim Little’s and I video “Steep Creekin’” and the video shows the run except for the last big drop where our cameras went dead. This drop can best be described as a cliff with water running over it, with a rock in the way. It can go, but an easy portage can be had on river left.(You can walk it and I won’t tell) The nicest drop on the run is the waterfall “Bedtime for Lothar” Bedtime is one of the most photogenic, cleanest, drops you will ever run. If you mess your line up, it’s an easy carry to try again. (And I am lazy, if I say it’s an easy walk….its an easy walk…..I wouldn’t even walk across the street for free food) A camera is a must for this run. The drop was our cover shot for our video. This run is worth it just for this drop alone. Wonder where “Bedtime” got its name? Jon’s nickname is Lothar, he was caught on film running the drop with his eyes closed…..Jon I expect payback for this one.

                      cooper creek photo by brian "cock-o" collins      paddler jim little

 Little Soddy Creek

 Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee

 This was first tackled by me and Michael Cawood in the April flood of 1993 when the Chick was too high. This one suffers from what I call Appalachian runoff; I’m not talking rain here either. There are enough tires and old washing machines thrown off the side of the road to where you think the locals are trying to fill the tiny micro gorge in one piece at a time. Be advised to wear hiking boots when entering the gorge there is plenty of broken beer bottles to go around for everyone, and a First Aid kit with extra strength band-aids might make you someone’s new friend.

 We put in where the two forks at the headwaters meet and become one. This one is short and sweet. The top cuts through layers of bedrock, and then it changes characteristics, gets a little faster and then becomes harder due to the gorge becoming more defined, but all the rapids will go .The main problem we had, with it being such a tiny stream, are the trees, which can choke the run if you are not careful. You can run this one when the Chick or others are too high.

 Is it worth it? Well instead of driving all over the place when other runs are too high and not getting to boat anywhere, this could be a place to go. It’s not natures fault on this run, this one is a prime example of how shallow man can be with his refuse.

Soddy Creek

Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee

 Soddy Creek can be run when the Chick is high or for that matter; lot’s of different levels, this one is a funky when it comes to water levels, BUT BEWARE it is probably one of the most dangerous runs on the ridge, everything it seems is undercut, even the fun rapids have penalty points, the mentality on the this run” Is not if, but when.”

 Soddy can also be run VERY LOW; but the undercuts are more exposed, but when others aren’t running this one will be. If it looks boney at the take out, you can still run it. A strong group with rescue skills is needed for this run, you need more that a throw bag to be safe and without the right gear and people, this run can turn epic. I always liked a strong group that you could count on. To my knowledge this run was first opened up by Doug Wellman, Terry Smith, and Ron Stewart.

Deep Creek:

Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee

 Deep Creek that runs into Soddy Creek is a great run; lot’s of fun steep creekin with some minor penalty points. Jim Little, Andy Bridge, Bailey Johnson, Mike “Louie” Lewis, Brian Collins and I first ran this and it is a great run, it is also in the video “Steep Creekin’”. The video does not show the rapids in order. We had 2 cameras, and it was getting late in the editing room, but it shows you a lot of that run. Soddy Creek needs to be very high for this fun run, when you hit Soddy you will feel like you need training wheels, after the low flow of Deep.  2” inch of winter rain helps this run.

Big Possum Creek:

Bakewell, Tennessee

 Big Possum Creek, It is the easiest run up there, it has a straight shot off the plateau, but yet lacks in gradient, a great run someone who wants no hair at all on their run. 1” of winter rain for this run. Flash floods have always been a problem for both of the Little Possum Creek and Big Possum, and Big usually has a problem with trees. This one was first run by me and Justin Howard in the summer of 1994, we were somewhat disappointed, but this run can go up a notch, when Little Possum is too high and when you are already in the area; this creek this could be the run for you.

rapid Imodium

Little Possum Creek:

Bakewell, Tennessee

 One of my favorite runs. Jim Little, Steve Frazier, Wade Verbal, Todd Gould, Mike Clark, Bill Thornton and I got the first run on this one also. It took two attempts, and to make a long story short, we first got caught in a flash flood.(You should listen to you inner voice, if its rained three days straight, and still raining , what makes you think its dropping?) The headwaters are really hurting from clear cutting, and the chip mill in Spring City is making it worse. 2” late spring or winter rain is good, but you have to be close, and in the area, for this one drops fast. It has probably the biggest, cleanest, highest quality and number of drops on the ridge. A Camera is a must. This run as killed and I recommend a strong group for this run due to the bad karma .But the DROPS ARE GREAT …Imodium Falls is a great drop. Elvis’s Truck Stop I heard has messed some more people up, as it did on our first trip, and it is the first major rapid on the top section, the undercut can be deceiving it comes up quicker than you think …the Double Drop  it is a “Suck it up and run it drop” type of rapid …Holy Cross is a bony run to remember (The trees that made the Cross are gone now) and White Out is a great drop…….Jim Little ran that one first, after being flushed into it .With too many boats in an eddy.(We didn’t think it would go, we couldn’t see what was in it) …then here came Jim….as usual what did we know…

 I must note Todd Smith passed away on the lower section, may he and his family rest in Peace.

 Rock Creek:

Sale Creek, Tennessee

 What a perfect name for a run, to my knowledge Roger Scott (of Ocoee fame) and his gang first opened up this run, I think this one is underrated. Everyone thinks of all the others. This one is a classic, true it doesn’t have the gradient of the others, but some of the best don’t have a lot of gradient  , but is has fun rapids and it has the flavor of the Chick without the wind , long rapids , or the big water, but yet can have the feel of big water. Near the end is when the rapids get hard so there is plenty of warm up. A good inch of winter rain is good for this one, and most can be run without scouting, but of course I don’t recommend that. If you have a class III boater group and some strong leaders, this is a great run. I put in on Hall Creek. This one use to take less rain, and would always run when the Chick was running but once again clear cutting and the Southern Pine Beetle are killing this one. (Another reason for bio-diversity on the Ridge)

                                             Duskin Creek at Low Water...spring drought no less

McGill Creek:

Graysville, Tennessee 

 A great creek run needs a ½ of rain (winter, late spring) it is kind of like Johnnies Creek in Alabama on how it reacts to rain. Mike “Louie” Lewis, Jeff Richards, Steve Smith and I got  the first one on this one, and is on the video “Steep Creekin’” both of these runs can be set up on the same shuttle (Roaring and McGill) so if one is running and the other isn’t you will not waste a lot of time . The sad part of McGill is the water quality of the run; it is a sterile, no fish. But do not let the stop you, the run is great nice big drops, the only one to really worry about is the first one in the gorge stay far, far right, the left has a pinning tree, and if you cut it out, another one appears like kudzu, (so we quit worrying about it) .After that they are all straight forward, Booger Rapid is easier now due to shorter boats.  Cumnock Falls , named after when the guys were placing bets who was going to tell my significant other (of the time) if I got hurt, its a Sunshine move rapid without the penalty points. Lewis Falls named in the Memory of Mike Lewis’s Dad (he passed away right before we made the run), The next major rapid is harder on the shorter boats, kind of a slot move into funny water, usually in a group of 5 to 6, someone flips and gets some quality time (you know, the last guys run gets worse, as each gets a little worse from following the other guy).  The run out in the valley is even fun, it is a like “It’s a small World “ride at Disney you get to float through trees, with current…..very neat experience not many runs have. This is a great run that needs to be run more. Put-out and take- in’s are on county roads. This one can be run really high also or very boney. When Roaring has just quit running you can still get down McGill. If a mishap happens in the Gorge you can hike out on an old coal mining road on river left, back to the main road where you just completed your shuttle.

                    deep creek photo by brian "cock-o" collins  rapid Crux......first descent

                    circa 1993 circa 1993 circa 1993

 Roaring Creek:

Graysville, Tennessee

 Probably one the best runs up there. Roaring needs a good 1.5” inch of quality rain (winter) 2”-2.5” (summer). This one drops quickly. A good creek run on the Ridge that might not kill you. A run for the jaded creeker and beginning creeker to make a run together .Another way I would tell if it was running was if Graysville Tennessee made the news for getting flooded out, the next day was always a good run .Hate it for the town, but love it for the boatin’. We got a lot of summer runs that way. Besides that, it’s how Graysville does its spring cleaning. The Big one on this one is the trees; clear cutting and Mountain Stone Mining have hurt the headwaters. The first major rapid is Crunch-n-Munch, the biggest rapid is Fuzzy Bunny near the end of the run, and we run the left side of the island, which is named Bitch. As of the fall, 2003 the rapid named Pole Cat (named after a local swimming hole) has trees in it, that will be there awhile, it will take a big chain saw party, and I mean BIG. The take-out is at bar who love paddlers, they want to hear all about how you “almost killed yer self runnin that stuff”, and then they will tell you how they tube the run, lot’s of comedy to be had here and a good place to get warm. It was first run by Jeff Richards, Mike Cawood, and myself and can be seen in the video “"Falling Off Walden's Ridge"”. This is a great run, although the put-in is on public land. Park at the gate, ask the Shaver family if it is alright to park there. But always ask first .Sometimes the Mountain Stone Company will let you go through their gate and park there. It has been a off again on again relationship with them. Some unknown people (names withheld to protect the guilty) have ratted them out to the State of Tennessee on their practices, and then they file bankruptcy, then a couple of years go by, and they open up again. Roaring Creek can be run at very high levels, almost at flood, but you need a strong party when at high water, when others are high in the area, run this one. It should be noted that this one rises and drops fast, I have put on with too much water, and it almost be boney by the end of the day. The shuttle is long compared to the other ridge runs, but multiple trips can still be had on this classic.

 "The REAL "  Brush Creek

Graysville, Tennessee

 Brush Creek that runs into Roaring Creek, needs a 1.5” of rain (winter) a lot of early summer runs have happened here also. It has some great rapids, and it one of my favorites, the biggest problem here is first, the put-in it at a Seven-day Adventist Compound, security there is very tight C.I.A TYPE, I’m talking dark sunglasses, microphones in their ears, and 3-piece dark suits, and this was before 9-11. You need to perform a Kayak Assault , the put-in is on a county road , and is not trespassing , but why make life harder than it is . Get a Shuttle Bunny (or to be P.C. Shuttle Buddy) dress out at the take out and haul butt. A true alpine-type/ Creeker run. Be in the mindset to portage, carry and get physical with the run. One of my favorite runs by far. Down and Dirty Creekin. It was first run my Jim Little, Mike Lewis, Steve Smith and myself. And can be seen on the video “Falling off Walden’s Ridge” .The biggest cleanest drop is the first one named Vertigo, and if you stand there long enough, wondering if you are going to run it, you’ll know how it go it’s name. It is a long, tall slide with a 15-10 ft drop at the bottom of the slide. The rest are dry slide boof rapids. With the middle section broken up by a very steep slide, then more of the same until you get to Roaring Creek .If you like Morgan Creek you might like this one too, be forewarned to take your beater gear, and not your new shiny Nantahala gear. I have been told it compares to the Raven Fork, and in my opinion it is one of the hardest in the country right now when caught with good water. It ain't the bear...I like the nickname Morgan's ugly cousin when describing this run.

History of the "real "brush creek: aka  Morgan's ugly cousin

First run by Jim Little (oc-1), Mike " Louie" Lewis (oc-1), Mark Cumnock (k-1) Steve Smith (k-1) at very low water, in the early 90's which was documented on Falling Off Walden's Ridge   Even during that run a lot rope work was used and stretched our gear to the limit, not much of hard stuff got the video, we were too busy , trying to get to the car and beat daylight, ad not get stuffed under a undercut or one of many trees.

Second and Third descents were by myself and Steve Smith, with a higher water level each time. With more rapids being knocked out with lot's of broken gear each time. (To the point of gear bankruptcy), and using the tired and true method of rock-paper-scissors. In the end we were using motocross gear borrowed from my ex brother-in-law at the time

My best memory of the run is Mike "Louie" Lewis talking to security. He said ,"Yes Sir we will leave, your right", then chunked his boat, and in two giant steps was out of sight in his boat. Well that was our clue....I was so unprepared for Louie's hot put-in, less than a 1/4 in the run Steve Smith asks "Are you wearing your lifejacket under your drytop?....my response...."DOH"!!!

As of summer 2004 its only been attempted 3 or 4 times. With lots of hike-outs and disgruntled paddlers, I even got a e-mail one day from the late Daniel D' of LVM fame complaining of the hardship, and low water of their trip... he wasn't a happy camper !

Until Jan 2006 when a heavy hitting group consisting of:

Andy Dodson (k-1)

Ted Hayes (k-1)

Jason Murrell(k-1)

Water Level: From Ted Hayes

Bear was 11-12"
N Chick was about 3.5'
Roaring 2'
Richland was 1'

Re-discovered  the run  in Jan.  2006 with a perfect water level, until this time the conditions had been wrong, and they were dedicated enough to go in and cut the trees out during the dry season. The rapid pictures are posted from their run and a special thanks is given to Andy Dodson for the use of the pictures and taking the camera.

Morgan Creek:  (aka North Pole) –

Dayton, Tennessee

 This bad boy rocks, another run similar to Brush Creek that runs into Roaring Creek, this one was first run and opened up by Clay Wright, Andy Turner, Ron Stewart, Doug Wellman, and Terry Smith. Later a first open boat run was by Mike “Louie” Lewis. This is gradient creekin’ at its best, you become physical with the run, with lots of scouting- portaging, most have been run. You will like this run if you don’t mind rocks without water, or buying new equipment. Lot’s of boof-slides to make moves. This is run is in my top 5 of favorite runs. The put-in is hurting from local land owners buying land and it is making access very difficult. I recommend a Kayak Assault for this one also, have a shuttle bunny, (yeah, yeah, yeah I know Shuttle Buddy) and dress at the take-out, you can put on a county road, just why ask for a hassle the run will be hard enough. This run can been seen in Wayne Gentry’s video “Vertical Addiction”, and was the cornerstone piece for his footage. The video has good shots of the run. It can also been seen on our video “Falling off Walden’s Ridge”….Tracy Clapp shot a lot Wayne’s footage for that one and Tracy did an excellent job. He is a hell-of-a-boater and an even better camera man. Between the two videos you can get a good flavor of the steepness of this wonderful run. Gotta note on here I know of, and have heard, of many people getting hurt on this run. I left my shoulder there at the stair step rapid, and Yes Howard and Clay I saw the footage were you edited out my roll, ha ha ha, Terry Smith left his back there at Chili Pepper.  Ben Hayes has footage in his video Local Hero with of some cat getting knocked out on his website steepcreeks. At Chili Pepper I've stressed crack two boats, and it is a good place to have a field test and put an end to the which paddle, and what boat can take the most abuse debate, so with that in mind,........ It’s your call.

                            deep creek photo by brian "cock-o" collins......first descent

                                                            paddler Mike "Louie" Lewis

Henderson Creek:

Dayton, Tennessee 

Man were do you start with this one. This one of the longest, greatest and challenging runs on The Ridge. The put-in run is two miles of Boogie Water or a Boney run from hell depending on water levels, and it will make BIG difference on a good day compared to “Where is the Car?” Day; if you pick the wrong level. For a first time run you want it boney, almost to were it hurts if you don't have a probe/lead boater. When you hit the gorge you want low water the first time due to all the rapids that keep coming at you .Also plan for a late spring run, to help with daylight, until you get comfortable with lines, and then later come back with more water to speed things up. This one was first run by Doug Wellman, Francis Mallory, Ron Steward, Terry Smith, Andy Turner, Alex Harvey and I. Every time I have run this one no matter what kind of shape I am in, sleeping that night is no problem, and I always wanted an easy run the next day. Wayne Gentry has good footage for this run on “Vertical Addiction”. But as Henderson would have it, there is still a lot not a lot of film due to the number of rapids and the length of the run. And then you have to content with the rest of the run on Richland Creek. This one is a “one of a kind run” that is true Walden’s Ridge Creekin’.

 Richland Creek: -

 Dayton Tennessee

This is the ultimate Park-n-Play for a creeker. This run was first open boated by Mike Cawood, and pioneered by Doug Wellman and Ron Stewart.  It has a hiking trail, which use to be the water main pipeline for the community of Dayton Tennessee. Hike two miles up .It is an easy walk almost flat, the creek drops, but you don’t, well almost. Right at the end it goes uphill, to the reservoir that held the water for the pipeline. (Just make sure you don’t forget your sprayskirt……no comment) The reservoir is about full now with rock from the creek. The first rapid is right after you put-in, and if you have no Mo for this one get ready to get hammered. There is some nicer creekin’, until about the middle of the run, then another drop type rapid appears. The rapids can be seen on the “Falling off Walden’s Ridge” video. This is a perfect afternoon run, Dayton has a 4 lane road now to help you get there quicker, and Richland holds it’s water better than of the other ridge runs, even in the summer after a rain. Plus you get the college chicks hiking there/ sunning themselves factor. Scared a lot of  Bryan College chicks sunning; boofing out of nowhere, they wonder how and where you came from, as you give the